Ramadan (orama)

First things first: Al Ain Branch was organized today. The SP came to our home last night and called Lance Ylanan as BP, yours truly as his counsellor, and Justin Shewell as the EQP. Today, in Abu Dhabi, the branch was organized and all the necessaries taken care of. Over the coming weeks we will build the branch under Lance's direction and hopefully lay the groundwork for something great and enduring. Here's the man (sideways: sometimes Mac is on crack):



Second things second: I promised some commentary on shopping, and as it has to do with the subject of Ramadan, I'll spare a minute for it. They love them some shopping here. We have two major malls in Al Ain (a comparably small city): one of them is actually right next door to our complex. There are western shops--Spring, Aldo, Gap, even Radio Shack!--and some more European shops--Carrefour (French Walmart), for instance. The true pleasures are the Arabian shops that sell abayas (the womens' cloak and head scarf) and dishdashas (the mens' traditional long tunic and headress), incense, gaudy furniture, hefty knicknackery, mobile phones, and dates of all kinds. There are literally shops everywhere here, in malls, shopping centres, and on side streets. There are tailors for "gents" and "ladies," hair "saloons" (again segregated), banks for every occasion, "souks" (outdoor markets for everything under the sun), and probably some deep, dark places we have yet to discover.

Speaking of abayas: these are increasingly decorated. The objective is of course modesty, but the abaya is a flimsy black covering that often accentuates physiognomy (thought sensually, not provocatively), and underneath the women apparently wear the latest in designer clothes according to their tastes. We wondered at first why all these high-fashion chains had shops here, but they are always busy. It isn't out of the ordinary to see a group of women in full veil (only the eyes exposed) picking out jeans, dresses, blouses, etc. They have Victoria's Secret here, for instance, though it isn't pornographic in its display. Not that I, you know, pay any attention. Ahem.

Incense burns everywhere in the malls. Each mall has a prayer room for men and another for women, if not an all-out mosque. There are places for kids to play ("Action Zone" and "Foton World"), food courts (KFC, McDonalds, Herfy's--a Saudi KFC, Subway, and lots of Lebanese and Italian places, too). There's even a Ponderosa Steakhouse in the mall near us: our new favourite place for a pre-fast buffet: international, delicious, and all for about 30 cdn.

I'd love to post pictures, but you must understand that it's hard to take shots when one is driving for one's life on the streets. Not really wise to pull over and step out for an ideal shot.

Ramadan: the Holy Month has a couple of purposes. First is to celebrate the blessings given by Allah, and second is to engender sympathy and generosity for and toward the less fortunate.

Here's the skinny: Ramadan begins with the first sighting of the crescent moon. This year that was Sept. 13, though apparently each of the GCC countries has its own chief astrologer and bottle washer. Anyway, it lasts for 30 or 31 days and consists of a daily fast and a nightly feast. Muslims fast from sunup to sundown--4:30-18:30ish--closing their fast with the Iftar prayer and feast. Most things close between 1 and 7 if they open at all before 7, and then stay open until after midnight. The objective is to allow muslims to rest during the heat of the day and return to work only once they have broken their fast. Many will feast on and off all night, some making the rounds of friends and family for various meals--like speed-dating, I'm told--and so the incidence of accidents rises sharply during the holy month. Tired drivers in a hurry.

Sayings: "Ramadan Kareem" (as in Abdul-Jabar) one sees everywhere, and my students tell me it means "generosity for Ramadan" (by the way: Rah-mah-dahn, with the emphasis on the final syllable). In stores it means "special offer" or discount--the stores' way of spreading the wealth by spreading the savings. One student told me it is customary for teachers to forgive late assignments or absences during this period: uh-huh. "Ramadan Mubarak" (Moo-bah-rahk, with the emphasis on the second syllable) is the general greeting, kind of like "Happy Christmas." There are others, but I've yet to learn their meanings.

At the end of Ramadan we have the "Eid" holidays: there's little Eid and big Eid, and the kids, for instance, get a week off school, as will I. This will come in just over two weeks, and we can't wait. Need a breather.

More later in the week. Sorry. Had some funny stuff, but we're all peaked and need to rest our heads. Kids' turn will have to wait. And no brilliant poems in the offing.

Next time: homosociality, Arabian nights, and the great carpet caper (in three languages!). All of this, of course, insh'Allah.